抖一抖,伦敦时装周上的一股清流

自从 Burberry 推出 SN/BN (See Now Buy Now) 看一看 瞧一瞧 买一买 整个伦敦时装周的风气就变得非常 Practical 了。大胆的设计款让位于商业和销售考量的“爆款”,走秀逐渐模式化为明星+豪华场地+可穿的衣服,曾经前卫实验以及脑洞大开带点幽默的伦敦特点在慢慢的一点点的。。。消失。。。然而总有人在这个时候站出来。

Jack Irving is a production and costume designer based in London. Jack started out a set and costume designer in his home town of Blackpool, where he was captivated by the magical showbiz world of the circus, theatre and the famous illuminations. He moved to London at the age of 18 to study performance design at Central St Martins College of art and design.  It was during this time Jack was given the creative freedom to enable him to nurture the colourful aesthetic that was born during his childhood. 

杰克厄文就是这样一个真正的 English Cool Kid。“I do what I like I like what I do”这种视消费者为不存在,让小清新滚蛋的纯态度,非福利发达国家设计师请勿模仿,小心饿死。

于是当我们在 BFC SHOWSPACE  ON | OFF PRESENTS… 看到他 SS18 的走秀时,惊讶鼓掌之余完全不意外。去你的仙女吧,女人在我这里是海底生物。

英伦摇滚 band 伴着鼓点略带哀伤的嘶吼,人们都疯了一样的鼓掌叫好,这时候你会觉得他的自我介绍很谦虚。

Jack is a storyteller and fantasist and depicts this throughout his current work, his work is a spectacle of glamour infused with engineered technology.

不禁让我想起他之前在 OXO TOWER 的那场秀,把三宅一生 BAO BAO 直接穿到身上,宝宝当时就惊了。。作为时装周的一股清流,终于做到了完全的藐视大家买买买的渴望,试问,哪个妹子愿意带着这样的帽子去约会?

可是 Lady Gaga 就真的做到了!(淘宝买家秀即视感)这才是真正生活的勇士,对比之下 WE ARE SO BORING

Lady Gaga has worn many of his pieces, the most famous of these is the Sea Urchin Showgirl inflatable dress that she wore on the finale night of her artRAVE:The Artpop Ball World Tour in Paris. 

非常期待下一季又会有怎么样的惊喜,在那之前让我们摘录一段杰克厄文与HISKIND的原版访谈,送给正在学习英文的时尚之友。感谢阅读本篇,也是最后一篇本季伦敦时装周的推送。

Your most recent collection stood out as particularly aquatic – somewhat of a camper and more playful Plato’s Atlantis – what inspired the collection?

My main inspiration is deep sea creatures and futuristic themes. I like to see my models as Alien Showgirls and for me this collection was about creating an army of alien showgirls who have just landed in London for another cosmic planet and are here to take over so – yes – it has a tongue ‘n’ cheek vibe. I want my work to come across as fun and still follow through the futuristic element. A showgirl always makes people smile so I hope I achieved this.

The shard corsets you’ve made are beautiful, tell us how they became a thing for you?

Thank you so much! They started out as a bit of an experiment which involved me testing out the capabilities of the material. Luckily they worked out really well so I got over excited and made multiple versions in different variations. My aim was to create cosmic armour for a superwoman figure within the collection with these pieces.

And you used bearded drag queens in your most recent LFW show (including HISKIND favourite Maxi More), what was the concept behind this?

The concept about using a bearded drag queen was that I wanted to bring an element of surprise to the show and in my mind, my army of alien showgirls are the most weird and wonderful but yet the most beautiful and Maxi More is exactly that and so much ‘MORE’. This was also the reason she came out right in the middle of the show. She was the tipping point in the collection to show things were about to get more excessive.

Maxi is a very special friend to me and has been a friend who has been there for me throughout my journey to where I am now. We actually met at a bus stop 3 years ago and I was so mesmerised by her energy and her look encapsulates everything I represent as a designer. I really wanted the show to be a celebration of every type of person and gender and Maxi defies all gender stereotypes. She’s a superstar and she blows everyone away when they see her so it was a no-brainer to have her in the show.

Where did this whole inflatable concept come from and what draws you to it so much?

From when I was a kid I was always obsessed with anything which was big or transformed. I started playing around with inflatable in my final year at Central Saint Martins and spent months refining and re-designing my formula for making inflatables. I love how a piece can essentially be 2 outfits once inflated and then deflated. I have many more inflatable concepts up my sleeve for future projects.

Who and what are the biggest inspirations for you?

My biggest inspirations in terms of designers are probably Thierry Mugler and Bob Mackie. I’m inspired by a variety of things. I’m obsessed with science documentaries about deep sea life. I also look at comic book references as well as old 1980s showgirl, cabaret imagery and bring it all together to drive the inspiration.

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